A Trans-Mongolian Journey By Dave Small - Part One Getting Started

With cheap trips so easily available online to many of the best holiday destinations, sometimes we can find ourselves overwhelmed with options when planning a trip. In this fantastic series from Dave Small we will be examining in depth the legendary Trans-Mongolian train journey from Beijing to Moscow. There are so many cool things to do between these iconic cities and Dave shares some tips for backpacker travel along the way.
 

A Trans-Mongolian Journey by Dave Small – Part One: Organising Tickets

Most train journeys claim to be 'one of the great train rides of the world'.  In some cases, such as the Oriental Express or Scotland's West Highland Line, this title is justified.  Others, such as London's Gatwick Express or Sydney's Parramatta Rail Link, it most certainly is not.  However, for a great travel experience there is one train journey that stands head and shoulders above the rest.  Stretching across seven time zones, the Trans-Siberian this is an epic journey never to be forgotten.

If the Trans-Siberian were to be a tennis player, it would surely be Venus Williams.  But like Venus Williams, there is a younger but more successful sibling, the Trans-Mongolian.  And it is this journey that gives you the best opportunity to immerse yourself in three great countries. 

Firstly, a few notes on the Trans-Mongolian.  The Trans-Mongolian route runs between Moscow and Beijing via Mongolia.  It is different to the Trans-Siberian (Moscow-Vladivostok) and Trans-Manchurian (Moscow-Beijing, bypassing Mongolia).  There is not just one train that travels this route; there are many different combinations you can choose from, with differing cost, duration and levels of comfort.  From a tourist perspective, trains 3 (West to East) and 4 (East to West), are the most popular, being the fastest and most comfortable, though also the dearest.  That said, there are many other options, particularly if you are planning to jump on and off along the way.

Stopping off along the way is well worthwhile, and I think, half the fun.  There are many options for stopovers, the most popular being Ulaan Baatar in Mongolia, and Irkutsk in Siberia at the base of Lake Baikal.  Some of the less popular destinations such as Novosibursk and Yekaterinberg offer an interesting side track, and the opportunity to reflect "what the hell am I doing here?"  I'll offer my experiences of all these along the way.

A few useful resources you should acquaint yourself with prior to heading off on your Trans-Mongolian adventure:

The Man In Seat 61 - www.seat61.com - is essential.  This website is incredibly helpful for train travel in any country, but especially the Trans Mongolian.

Bryn Thomas's Trans Siberian Handbook - this is an excellent resource for enjoying your train journey.  The book plots out every kilometre of the journey and what to look out for (eg. "kilometre mark 6793 - look out for an impressive birch tree at the brow of the hill")  Additionally, it gives excellent tips to the idiosyncrasies of the trains, and good information on stops.

Trans Siberian Lonely Planet - the strength here is in the destination information, such as accommodation, eating, reasonable maps, and all in the format that well-seasoned travellers have become accustomed to.

Real Russia - www.realrussia.co.uk - this agency is excellent for organising visas for all three countries along the route

There are several class options for travellers.  Most will opt for the 2nd class-4 birth Kupe class, and this is a sensible option.  This offers a four bed compartment, which may be shut off from the passing traffic for a little P&Q. If money is no object, 1st Class 2-birth offers double the space at double the price.  1st class-4 birth offers very little more than Kupe, and is hardly worth the additional expense.  For those wanting to mix with the riff-raff a little more, Platskartny is your higher density option, with triple bunks in an open carriage arrangement.  This is quite often amusing for mixing with the locals, though some are often disappointed to find the locals just want to bunk up and sleep.  The lower bunk on each side doubles as a seat during the day.  Depending on what party size you're in, you may want to put some thought into which bunk you want.  You may be disappointed if a local wants to sleep all day, and doesn't wish to share the lower bunk for vodka drinking and general frivolity.  That said it can be nice to retire 'upstairs' for a mid-afternoon nap and not disturb anyone.  My suggestion is that if you are travelling as a pair take an upper and lower bunk, and then you're covered.

Many um and ah over whether to pre-buy tickets, or buy along the way.  If your schedule is tight, and especially during peak season, pre-buying tickets may be your best bet.  Agencies such as Real Russia are particularly helpful, but come at a premium.  Buying tickets along the way is not altogether difficult, and provides added flexibility.  With so many different train services available, you're unlikely to be stranded anywhere.  And, only a little patience and a slight grasp of the cyrillic alphabet (more on that later) is required.  If you'd don't have these, I'd strongly reconsider a 7 day inter-continental train journey.  The one leg that this may not apply is Beijing to UB, more on that later.

In Part Two Dave explores Beijing before travelling into Mongolia.