A Trans-Mongolian Journey - Part Four Russia
Dave Small
December 2, 2010
Tags: cheap trips best holiday destinations great rail journeys
In the final leg of his journey Dave travels to some of the best holiday destinations in Russia. From Lake Baikal in Siberia Dave travels to glittering St Petersburg. A great article for anyone with an interest in cheap trips on the Trans-Mongolian.
When talking about Lake Baikal, one can't resist talking in superlatives - one fifth of the worlds fresh water, deepest lake in the world etc. etc. Nor can one resist talking in the third person. It's a great stopoff along the way, especially if coming from China and Mongolia as it now becomes clear that you're in Russia - gone are the gers and large overcoats, and in come the timber houses and impossibly small skirts ('What! You can't wear that in public!'). There are a few accommodation options for the budget traveller in Irkutsk - The Baikaler, run by the very reliable Jack Shemeratoff, and the Downtown Hostel, are both good options with plenty of help and information. However, the smart money is with Galena's Homestay - knock on the back door of the timber house on the corner of ul Pyatoy Amtii and Rossiskaya ul. For 600 roubles a night you'll be treated to Mama Galena's friendly hospitality, including the most satisfying pancake breakfast you'll enjoy for a good while. And if you're lucky, she may ask if "you would lyike to meet soom Russian Gyals... I can get you emayl addresses."
Lake Baikal, though, is the attraction of the area, and there are numerous options for a visit. Come during the winter months and you'll find the lake frozen over to a good metre. Come during the summer and there's the opportunity to take a one of the coldest dips you'll experience - it's said to put years on your life expectancy, decades if you're patient and have little regard for your reproductive organs. Listvyanka is a very pretty lakeside town and a great place to relax for a day. A bus from the main bus station (100 roubles, 1hr) will drop you at a spot of your choice. Also popular is Olkhon Island, further north. You could do worse than to stay at Nikita's Guesthouse, with meals in the inviting dining area included in the 800 rouble/night fee. Nikita's offer's all manner of services, including Russian steam baths and mountain bikes, for exploring Olkhon Island. Buses from Irkutsk Bus Station (500 roubles) take around at least 5 hours, expect but enjoy long wait for the ferry in peak times.
It was not that long ago that Yekaterinburg was closed to foreigners. It now makes a good place to experience your regular Russian city, as well as break up the journey to Moscow. Perched in the Urals near the Asia/Europe border, Yekaterinburg has numerous claims to fame - home of Boris Yeltsin, site of the famous U2 episode of the Cold War, and where Czar Nicolas and the Romanov family were murdered by the Bolsheviks. The city appears to have had a renaissance in recent years, and the colourfully restored houses and public buildings are very appealing. For budget accommodation, the Meeting Point Hostel (600 roubles / night) is great. Run by the ever friendly Ekaterina, it's a pleasant, homely apartment that allows you to meet like minded travellers. Worthwhile is Ekaterina's city tour (Ekaterinberg by Ekaterina), who will show you the sites of the town, and give excellent recommendations of bars, clubs and restaurants. Recommended is a visit to the Church of Spilt Blood, the site of the Romanov murders, as well as a visit to the war memorial (ul Pervomayskaya), commemorating wars in Afghanistan, Chechnya, much of eastern Europe, and all the other grand pages in Russian military history. Trains from Irkutsk to Yekaterinburg are around 8200 roubles for kupe.
And so it's on to Moscow, and be prepared! For in Moscow, you get the distinct feeling that you could be thrown into jail and never seen again! Not that this is likely to happen. Moscow is a must, one of the most exciting cities of the world. The big attraction is the imposing Red Square (free), with the stunning St Basil's Cathedral, and nearby Kremlin Complex (350 roubles, 300 to the armoury). These are a must in Moscow, and an eerie viewing of Lenin in his tomb ('Is it him... is it a Madame Tussauds model... I'm not sure') is worth the wait. Further afield, a pleasant walk can be taken from the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour. Although only rebuilt on it's original site in 1990 ('wow - if those walls could talk'), it is an imposing building nonetheless and and interesting insight into the Orthodox faith should you visit during a service. A pleasant walk can be taken south along the river down to Gorky Park ('listening to the winds... of chaaaaannnggeee' etc.), via the intriguing Novodevichy Cemetery to the impressive Moscow State University.
Be warned though that Moscow Police enjoy checking your papers, and demanding a bribe if the opportunity presents. Make sure you always have copies with you as a minimum, and don't hand give away your passport if it can be helped. There have been endless reports of extortionate police pulling travellers down back alleys, the best approach is to just avoid and keep your head down.
Yekaterinburg to Moscow takes around 30hrs and costs circa 3500 roubles.
By this stage of the trip, it's possible you may have developed mild alcoholism. This is completely normal, for the Russians drink a power of alcohol. It may surprise you to know that it is actually illegal to drink in public. The caveat is that drinks of less than 5% alcohol (i.e. all beers) are technically not classed as alcohol. The only places where beer is banned is children's playgrounds and science laboratories. How reassuring.
With that in mind, it's onward to the final - and probably, finest - destination on the journey: St Petersburg. As a travel destination, St. Petersburg sits head and shoulders above all other Eastern European capitals. Additionally, it's fortunate for you that Russian ambivalence towards tourism combined with complicated visa requirements has also meant that it's not overrun with tourists in the same way that Prague, Krakow and Budapest now are. With a visa in your passport and a bit of an insight into the Russian psych and language, you're in a prime position to enjoy Eastern Europe's number one travellers destination.
If there's one location along the route that lends itself to a season, it's midsummer in St Petersburg. 'White Nights', the week around the summer solstice, boasts daylight from 3am to 1am and sends the city into dream like spin. The highlight to this is the nightly midnight opening of the draw bridges along Neva River to allow ships to pass. Crowds gather along the banks in the twilight with their vodka to watch the ships move, as well as see the sun set, then rise again an hour or two later in the same point on the horizon.
Beyond the splendid 18th and 19th century architecture, there are a few musts on the itinerary, which though obvious, are absolutely worthwhile. Firstly, the summer palace, featuring the Hermitage Museum. The Hermitage rightly takes it's place amongst world class museums, but like Paris's Louvre, New York's Met or Madrid's Prado, taking it all in would take days. Pre-booking tickets on the internet will save you the arduous queuing and should be considered. However, once inside - art lover or not - you'll be impressed. The second 'must' is The Church of the Saviour on Spilt Blood. Perfectly positioned for reflective photographs off the canal, this church is the photo you've been looking for all journey. And whilst the entrance fee might seem a little steep at this point in your trip, be assured the intricate mosaics inside make the one Russian church worth visiting and well worth the cost. There are many other attractions worth taking in throughout St Petersburg, such St Isaac's Cathedral and the Summer Gardens, or a day trip to the spectacular fountains of Petrodvorets. But much of the enjoyment of St Petersburg can be gained by walking the canals in the late evening light and taking in the excitement that infects this city through the summer.
The overnight leg between Moscow and St Petersburg is one of the quickest, taking around 8 hours at at a cost of around 2300 roubles. Depending on your service though, you may well enjoy a few extra comforts such as a packed dinner and toiletries.
