This ancient and modern city, once the capital of the kingdom of Castile, and later headquarters to Franco's government during the Civil War, will certainly repay a visit. My last arrival was by bus at the end of a stint of walking on the Camino de Santiago. I had done five days of hard walking, and short of time to complete my allotted distance, I hopped a bus into Burgos at a village on the N120 and arrived tired and dishevelled at the busy underground bus station at Calle de Miranda, and hauled my bag a few yards to the hotel ABC Conde de Miranda, moderately priced and comfortable. When I went out to explore, later in the evening, I found myself within a couple of hundred yards of the fantastic gateway to the inspiring square around the magnificent cathedral dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Its building was begun in the thirteenth century and continued right through
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